Have you ever absent- mindedly stepped in front of one of those magnifying mirrors hotel bathrooms often have, only to become instantly fascinated by the topography of your skin? In particular your pores, once barely visible, now appearing crater-size and unmissable – or worse, clogged with gunk.
If you’ve ever posted a selfie on social media you might have casually swiped over a filter that instantly removed all signs of skin texture.
Both of these approaches may negatively influence our feelings around a natural part of our anatomy that is actually fundamental to our skin’s health.
What are pores?
Those tiny dots you see on the surface of your skin are actually the openings of hair follicles. Each one contains a sebaceous gland that when working correctly, produces your skin’s oils (sebum) that lubricate and waterproof the skin and hair and protect it from bacteria, and environmental challenges.
One of the beauty myths that has lingered for decades is that pores are like doors, that we can open and close. Therefore slamming ours shut, or at least shrinking them with ‘hacks’ like plunging our face into ice cold water are mere fantasy.
“Unfortunately pores are not muscles, therefore they do not open and close, “ explains Vanessa Feehan-Meldrum, Sothys National Technical Trainer.
Sometimes pores become more visible when they are blocked with dead skin cells and sebum. This creates either a closed white bump known as a ‘whitehead’, or a ‘blackhead’, when that oil blockage reaches air and becomes oxidised, turning into a darker plug.
Genetics also play a key part in determining your pore size.
L-R: Rare Beauty Always An Optimist Pore Diffusing Primer; Clinique Even Better Pore Defying Primer; Benefit The Porefessional Primer; Elizabeth Arden Flawless Start Instant Perfecting Primer Antioxidant Blend; e.l.f. Poreless Putty Primer
Minimising their appearance
So while getting rid of them is impossible – and skin and appearance experts say managing this expectation is forming a large part of their role currently – we can make them appear less obvious.
“Keeping pores clean will always help to keep them from distending,” says Feehan-Meldrum, who points out they can also appear more obvious when the natural structure around the pore loses its integrity and begins to sag thanks to aging and sun exposure.
“Maintaining a good collagen and elastin structure will produce stronger pore walls. Preventing sun damage and free radicals [from sources] such as smoking will assist in slowing down enlargement of pores.”
Any approach that causes excessive irritation to the skin like scrubs should be avoided, but using skincare designed to minimise dead skin cell build-up and balance sebum production is a good idea. In particular those with salicylic acid and niacinamide are useful additions to a routine. Daily SPF is also a must.
In clinic, there are a number of beneficial treatments including deep cleansing and resurfacing treatments like microdermabrasion, gentle chemical peels, collagen induction treatments like Dermapen and laser rejuvenation.
Best makeup moves
Nica Marcello, Revlon & Elizabeth Arden National Education Manager for Australasia, suggests using a primer beneath your foundation to smooth any visible texture.
“Silicone-based primers or primers containing polymers can help camouflage pores. Silicone particles create a soft-focus optical effect. They help to smooth out your complexion and create the canvas for your makeup. She says mattifying primers also keep oil at bay, keeping foundation in place and shine free.
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